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How big brands resell their used products to you

Economics · 5 min listen

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Cover art for How big brands resell their used products to you
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HostI was looking for some hiking boots online the other day and noticed something that felt a bit off. The brand itself was trying to sell me a pair of shoes that someone else had already worn for a year. It seems like every big name now, from yoga pants to fancy watches, is getting into this. Why are these giant companies suddenly so obsessed with selling us their own old stuff?

GuestIt's a massive shift in how they think about what they make. For a long time, once a brand sold you a jacket or a pair of jeans, they were done with it. They didn't care if you wore it forever or threw it in the trash. But now they see all that used gear floating around on the web and they want a piece of the action. They have realized that their things actually hold value long after that first sale. If a coat is built well enough to last ten years, they don't want to just get paid once. They want to get paid every time that coat changes hands.

HostBut we already have plenty of places to buy used things online. I can go to a dozen different sites and find a used bag in two minutes. Why would I go back to the original brand to buy it?

GuestThat's the big question. These brands are betting on trust. When you buy a used luxury bag or a high end watch from a random person on the web, you're always a little bit worried. Is it a fake? Is the zipper about to break? When the brand takes it back themselves, they can check it over. They clean it, fix any loose threads, and then put their own stamp on it to say it's real. They call it certified pre owned. It's a fancy way of saying they promise it's not junk. People are willing to pay a bit more for that peace of mind. Plus, the brands get to keep you on their own website instead of letting you wander off to some big online yard sale where you might see a different brand you like better.

HostIt sounds like a win for them, but I have to wonder if this is just a way for them to look like they care about the earth. It feels a bit like they're just trying to look green without actually changing how much new stuff they pump out.

GuestThere's definitely a bit of that going on. It looks very good in their yearly reports to say they're helping the planet by keeping clothes out of the dump. And to be fair, it does help. If you buy a used shirt instead of a new one, that's less water and energy used. But here is the catch. Most of these brands don't give you cash when you bring your old gear back. They give you a gift card. So, to get rid of your old stuff, you have to buy something new from them. It's a loop that keeps you spending money with them forever. They're not just selling used gear, they're using it as a hook to sell you the next new thing.

HostSo it's not really about selling less. It's about making sure you never leave the store. But how do they actually make money on this? It seems like it would cost a lot of money to take things back, clean them, and ship them all over again.

GuestIt's expensive, and that's why for a long time they didn't bother. But the math has changed. The tech for tracking these items has gotten much better. They use tiny chips or special tags to know exactly where a product came from. Also, they have found that the people buying used gear are often younger. These are folks who maybe can't afford a five hundred dollar coat right now, but they can afford a used one for two hundred. The brand gets to start a relationship with that person early. They hope that in five years, when that person has more money, they'll come back and buy the brand new version. It's a long game. They're building fans for life by making their stuff feel like it's within reach for more people.

HostWait, does this mean they're going to start making things differently? If they know they have to sell a bag three times to three different people, do they start making it tougher so it survives all those owners?

GuestYou would hope so, but it's actually a bit of a tension for them. If they make a shirt that lasts forever, you don't need to buy a new one. But if they want to sell it again as used, it has to be tough. We're starting to see some brands lean into this. They're using thicker cloth or better seams because they know that shirt has to look good even after two years of wear if they want to resell it. It turns the product into an asset they can keep making money on. It's almost like a car. You don't expect a car to be trash after one owner. Now, brands want you to think about a puffer jacket or a pair of boots the same way.

HostIt still feels a bit strange to think of a big clothing brand as a used car lot. I wonder if the people who buy these brands for the status will be upset that anyone can just go buy a used version for half the price.

GuestThat's a risk, but for most big names, the used market is already huge. They can't stop people from selling their old stuff, so they figured they might as well be the ones in charge of it. By running the used shop themselves, they can control the price. They can make sure their brand still looks high end and clean. They're taking the power back from the big auction sites. The real goal for these companies is to make sure that even when a bag or a pair of jeans has four different owners, they're the ones who make money on every single handoff.

HostThose hiking boots I found are starting to look less like a bargain and more like a way for the brand to never let go of my wallet.

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