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Why everyone is cooking everything in an air fryer

Food · 5 min listen

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Cover art for Why everyone is cooking everything in an air fryer
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HostI walked into a friend's kitchen last week and saw this big, shiny black egg sitting right in the middle of her counter. She told me she uses it for everything from salmon to Brussels sprouts and that her big oven is basically just a place to store pans now. It feels like these things just fell from the sky and took over our homes. What's actually going on with the air fryer?

GuestIt really comes down to a clever bit of naming and a very old way of moving heat around. To start with, the name is a bit of a lie. There's no frying happening in that box. If you open one up, you'll find a heating coil and a very strong fan. It's basically a tiny, super-powered oven that blows a hot wind storm. We have had ovens with fans for a long time, but they were big and slow. This is different because it's small and intense. When you put food in that little basket, the hot air hits it from every single side at the same time. It moves so fast and carries so much heat that it almost acts like a liquid. That's why the food gets that crunch we usually only get from a vat of hot oil.

HostBut my big oven in the kitchen has a fan too. People call it a convection oven. If I already have a fan in my big oven, why would I buy this giant plastic bucket that takes up all my counter space?

GuestThe difference is all about the scale and the speed. Your big oven is huge. It takes ten or fifteen minutes just to get hot, and then that fan moves air around a big, empty room. By the time the heat reaches your food, it has lost its punch. The air fryer is a tiny box with a fan that's much larger for its size. The air moves at a much higher speed. Think about the difference between a light breeze on a warm day and standing right in front of a hair dryer. The hair dryer is going to dry things out and heat them up way faster. In that little basket, the wind is so strong that it strips away moisture from the skin of the food instantly. That's how you get a crust. It does in eight minutes what your big oven takes twenty-five minutes to do, and it does it with much less power.

HostI still struggle with how they look, though. They're bulky and kind of ugly. I feel like it's just another one of those kitchen gadgets like the bread maker or the fondue pot that everyone buys because of a trend, and then it ends up in a garage sale two years later.

GuestPeople said that five years ago, but the sales just keep going up. It's sticking around because it fits how we live now. Most of us aren't cooking a giant roast for a family of six every night. We're heating up some frozen pot stickers or roasting a couple of chicken thighs after work. If you use a big oven for that, you're wasting a lot of time and making your whole kitchen hot. The air fryer is ready to go the second you turn it on. It also solves the problem of soggy leftovers. If you put a piece of cold pizza in a microwave, it gets rubbery because the microwave just heats the water inside. But the air fryer hits the crust with that hot wind and makes it crisp again. It's a tool for the way we actually eat, not the way we imagine we cook.

HostThat sounds convenient, but the health part bugs me. We call it healthy because we aren't using oil, but then we just use it to eat more frozen mozzarella sticks and bagged fries. Is it actually better for us, or is that just what we tell ourselves to feel good about buying a new toy?

GuestYou're right to be a bit skeptical. If you use it as a way to eat more processed, breaded food, then it's not a health miracle. But there's a real shift happening in how people cook vegetables because of it. A lot of people hate steamed broccoli because it's mushy and bland. But if you throw that same broccoli in an air fryer for six minutes with a tiny drop of oil, it gets charred and crispy on the edges. It tastes like it came from a high-end restaurant. It makes the good stuff taste like junk food, which helps people actually eat their greens. The real win is that you get the same golden-brown crust that oil provides, but you're using maybe a teaspoon of oil instead of a quart. That's a massive drop in fats and calories without losing the part of the food that makes our brains happy.

HostIt seems like we're moving away from the idea of the kitchen having one main heart. Instead of the stove being the center of everything, we have these little specialized pods doing different jobs.

GuestWe're definitely seeing a shift toward these smaller, smarter tools that do one thing very well. The big question left for the food world is whether these gadgets are teaching us to be better cooks who understand heat and air, or if we're just getting better at pushing a button and waiting for a beep.

HostThat shiny black egg might have changed how my friend makes her dinner, but it still has to prove it can do more than just make a better french fry.

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