Open in app
Cover art for Why food tastes so bland on an airplane

Why food tastes so bland on an airplane

Food · 5 min listen

Get the app on mobile
Download on the App Store Get it on Google Play
Cover art for Why food tastes so bland on an airplane
0:00
0:00
Transcript

HostYou know that moment when you're sitting on a plane and the little cart rolls down the aisle and the smell of the food hits you? You peel back that thin foil lid, expecting a nice meal, but then you take a bite and it just tastes like nothing. It's a classic travel trope that plane food is bad, but I have always wondered if it's the kitchen or if it's just us. Is there something about being way up in the sky that actually breaks our sense of taste?

GuestIt's a bit of both, but mostly it's your body reacting to a very strange world. When you step onto a plane, you're entering a place that's drier than most deserts. The air in a cabin is kept at about twelve percent moisture. To give you some scale, the Sahara Desert is usually around twenty percent. That dry air acts like a sponge and sucks the moisture out of your nose and your mouth. When your nose is dry, the tiny hairs and the thin layer of slime that help you smell things stop working well. Since most of what we think of as taste is actually smell, the food starts to lose its soul before you even pick up your fork.

HostWait, I thought taste was all about the tongue. If my mouth is a bit dry, sure, but why does a dry nose make my chicken pasta taste like cardboard?

GuestThink of your tongue as just a basic tool. It can tell you if something is salty, sweet, sour, or bitter. That's about it. The real magic, the part that lets you tell the difference between a strawberry and a raspberry, happens in the back of your nose. When you chew, the smells of the food travel up through the back of your throat to your nose. But on a plane, that path is blocked by the dry air and the low pressure. It's like trying to listen to music with your ears plugged. You might hear the beat, but you miss all the notes. In tests where people tried the same food on the ground and in a cabin, their ability to taste salt and sugar dropped by about thirty percent.

HostBut isn't it also just that it's frozen food cooked in a giant tub? I mean, I have had some pretty bad meals on the ground too, and they didn't need low air pressure to taste like soggy bread.

GuestThe cooking is definitely part of the challenge. Chefs have to make food that can be cooked, chilled, stored for hours, and then heated back up in a tiny oven using hot air. That process dries things out even more. But even if you took a five star meal from the best kitchen in the city and ate it at thirty thousand feet, you would still find it bland. The air pressure also makes your body swell up a bit. You might notice your shoes feel tight or your hands look puffy. That same swelling happens in the tubes that connect your nose and ears. It creates a dull feeling in your head, almost like you have a mild cold.

HostThat sounds like a lot for a lunch tray to fight against. But I have heard people say the noise matters too. I don't really see how a loud engine changes my tongue. That sounds a bit like a tall tale to me.

GuestIt sounds wild, but it's true. There's this idea called sonic seasoning. Your brain only has so much room to process what's going on around you. When there's a constant, loud thrumming sound from the engines, it fills up your brain. Tests show that when people eat in a loud room, they find food less sweet and less salty. But here is the weird part. That same loud noise can actually make some flavors taste stronger. A deep, savory taste called umami, which you find in things like soy sauce, tomatoes, or mushrooms, stays very strong or even gets a boost in a noisy place. This is why a lot of people who never drink tomato juice on the ground suddenly crave it as soon as the seatbelt sign goes off.

HostIf the airlines know all of this, why can't they just make the food much saltier and be done with it? It seems like an easy fix to just dump more spice in the pot.

GuestThey actually do try that, but there's a limit. If you just keep adding salt, the food starts to taste bitter or just plain wrong. It's hard to find a balance because you're also dealing with how the cold air affects the spices. Some spices like cinnamon or ginger hold up well, but others like delicate herbs just disappear. Some airlines have even tried using special headphones to play music that's supposed to make food taste better, or they use different kinds of oils to keep the food moist. But at the end of the day, they're fighting against physics. The low pressure also changes how fast water boils, so even getting a good cup of tea is hard because the water isn't hot enough to get the flavor out of the leaves.

HostSo we're sitting in a dry, loud, high pressure box trying to eat food that was cooked hours ago. It's a wonder we can taste anything at all. It makes those little packets of salt and pepper feel like they're doing a lot of heavy lifting.

GuestTomato juice stays the big winner because those savory notes cut right through the noise and the dry air when everything else fails.

HostThe next time that tray lands on the little plastic table, the bright red juice in the cup will be the only thing that actually tastes the way it should.

Made with Wander

A world of curiosity you can listen to. Explore endless questions, or ask your own.

Get the app