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Why Gen Z buys secondhand clothes faster than anyone else

Culture · 5 min listen

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Cover art for Why Gen Z buys secondhand clothes faster than anyone else
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HostI was walking by a local thrift shop the other day and the line was out the door and halfway down the block. Most of the people waiting were clearly on the younger side, and it made me wonder if they have just given up on the mall entirely. What's actually going on with this huge jump in buying used clothes?

GuestIt's much more than just a trend at this point. We're seeing a real shift in how people shop, and Gen Z is right at the front of it. While the rest of the clothing world is growing slowly, the secondhand market is moving about three times faster. In fact, some reports show that about two out of every three young shoppers will look for a used version of an item before they even think about buying it brand new. They're not just looking for a deal, though that's part of it. They're basically changing the rules of what it means to own something.

HostIs it mostly about the price? With the way things cost lately, I can see why a five-dollar shirt looks better than a fifty-dollar one.

GuestMoney is a huge piece of the puzzle, especially when things like food and rent are so expensive. But there's also this thing called the hunt. For a lot of these shoppers, going to a big mall and seeing ten rows of the exact same blue sweater feels boring. It feels mass-produced. When you go into a thrift shop or use an app like Depop, you're looking for that one special item that nobody else has. It lets them stand out. And now that these apps have over forty million people on them, that hunt has moved from dusty bins to a phone screen. It's almost like a game. You find a rare piece from twenty years ago, and suddenly you have a look that's completely yours.

HostThat sounds fun, but it also sounds like a lot of work. I mean, scrolling through thousands of photos just to find one shirt seems like a slow way to get dressed.

GuestIt used to be slow, but it's getting much faster because of tech. Now, these apps use smart tools to learn what you like. If you look at a certain kind of old jacket once, the app starts showing you more of them from all over the world. It's also getting easier to sell. About half of Gen Z tried selling their own used clothes for the first time just in the last year. They have turned their closets into little businesses. They don't just buy a shirt to wear it until it falls apart. They buy it with an exit strategy.

HostWait, an exit strategy for a t-shirt? That sounds a bit like the stock market.

GuestIt kind of is. A huge number of young buyers—more than eighty percent in some groups—will actually check how much they can sell a shirt for later before they even buy it new. They want to know if an item holds its value. If they buy a high-quality brand used for twenty dollars, they know they can probably sell it again for twenty dollars in six months. It makes the clothes feel almost free because the money just keeps moving in a loop. They're moving away from the idea of cheap, throwaway fashion because those items have no resale value. If it's made poorly, you can't sell it again, so they don't want it.

HostBut if they're buying and selling this fast, are they really helping the planet? It feels like they might just be consuming more stuff, just in a different way.

GuestThat's a fair point and it's where things get a bit messy. The hope is that buying used means fewer new things get made. That saves water and keeps old clothes out of the trash. But you're right that the speed of it's still very high. Some people call it fast thrift. If you're buying thirty used items a month just to show them off in a video and then sell them again, you're still part of a high-consumption cycle. The shipping and packaging for all those small app sales add up too. So, while it's better than making a brand-new polyester shirt from scratch, the sheer volume of stuff moving around is still a lot for the world to handle.

HostSo it's a mix of being thrifty, wanting to look different, and trying to run a side hustle. Do you think this is just a phase, or is the traditional mall actually in trouble?

GuestThe mall is definitely feeling the heat. We're seeing major brands start their own used sections because they know they have to compete. This is a structural change. For younger people, the stigma of wearing someone else's old clothes is totally gone. In fact, it's the opposite now. Wearing something brand new from a big-box store can almost feel a bit uncool, like you didn't put any effort into finding something special. As long as people want to save money and have a unique style, this way of shopping is going to keep growing. The goal for many now is to never pay full price for a new piece of clothing ever again.

HostThat thrift store line I saw makes a lot more sense now that I know there's a whole business plan behind every vintage jacket.

GuestMost of those people in line are looking at their clothes as a way to express themselves and a way to keep their bank accounts full at the same time.

HostThose long lines at the thrift shop show that the hunt for the perfect used find is officially the new way we shop.

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